2013 Merlot Freistil, Weingut In der Eben, Alto Adige (Südtirol)
What a density, what a warmth! Urban Plattner's Merlot Freistil tells everything quietly and restrained - if you know how to get involved! Because he doesn't come in a cheesy Coldplay robe, like so many of his fellows. Urban Plattner works biodynamically, very gently and above all very slowly and patiently. This results in wines of an amazing inner density and vibration without disturbing background noises and unnecessary frippery. Anything but cuddly and yet impressing with an offside honesty and a wild-animalic robustness.
Can’t even see trough this deep ruby red. Herbs, balsamic, forest fruits, ripe cherry, strong, masculine tannin. Dried grapefruit, some leather, musk, tobacco, brittle. Fine, signing acidity. Long reverberation, enormous potential. Almost wished I had it with more maturity in the glass. So I try over several days - all the better!
Urban Plattner took over the Ebnerhof in Bolzano's Eisacktal in 2011 and pushed the strictly biological way of working of his father even more stringently. He’s running 3,5 Hektare Vineyards around the House, mostly planted decades ago on Porphyr Grounds. The expansion takes place in large wood-barrels and usually lasts at least 36 months. This also applies to his equally unusual and demanding #vernatsch and #malvasia ! Really honest, really headstrong really good and really real.
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